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Limewashing the Gate Houses
One of the interesting techniques that we are using at the Garden Home Retreat is applying limewash on the stone outbuildings such as the gate houses. When you consider that this practice was developed thousands of years ago to protect homes from the elements, it just makes sense to use the same time-tested methods on these buildings
Limewash is extremely durable because it actually soaks into porous surfaces like a stain and then dries to a hard coat. What happens is the calcium hydroxide in the limewash reacts with carbon dioxide in the air, resulting in calcium carbonate, a process known as carbonation. A result of this reaction is the formation of crystals of calcite, which gives it that matt appearance.
Even though the limewash dries hard, it is still vapor permeable or breathable. Moisture doesn't get trapped behind the limewash, so it won't bubble or peel.
Limewash does start to wear away, but that is part of its charm. As surfaces age, limewashed structures develop a lovely patina reminiscent of European villages or old American farmsteads. This is one reason I've chosen to use it on buildings that will sit in the garden. I want them to appear aged, blending in with the landscape rather than standing out like a shiny new penny.
Limewash is suitable for any unpainted, porous, water-permeable surface. Adobe, plaster, brick, stone, concrete and stucco are all good candidates. Because it doesn't produce noxious fumes you can even use it indoors.
I selected a buttery cream for the buildings at the Garden Home Retreat, but there are several options to choose from. Earth tones are said to be the most successful because they are less likely to fade in the sun or react to the lime. However, if you are feeling wild, you can use bright colors like blue, pink or gold.
If you don't have a building or wall that you want to limewash it is also a great option for applying color to terra cotta pots or concrete garden ornaments.
Materials:
- Limewash (available pre-mixed or as a paint base)
- Water
- 5 Gallon Bucket
- Gloves
- Safety Goggles
- Mask
- Paint Brush
- Paint Roller
- Hand Held Drill with Paint Paddle Attachment
Application:
Thoroughly clean the surface where you will apply the wash. Remove any vegetation and dirt. Limewash won't adhere to painted surfaces. If feasible, you can strip the paint just keep in mind that acidic paint strippers will leave behind an acidic residue that will affect the limewash.
After cleaning, allow the surface to dry until just damp. The surface should be damp to allow for a slow curing, which makes the limewash less chalky and more durable.
Prepare the limewash. Pre-mixed solutions just need to be stirred to with a paint paddle to ensure even distribution of lime and pigment. Paint bases will need to be diluted with water. The end product should have the consistency of skim milk.
Brush the limewash onto the damp surface with a stiff bristle paint brush, working it into joints and cervices and finishing with vertical strokes. You want a transparent, even coat. As it dries it will become more opaque. If you put it on too thick it will crack.
Depending on the level of opaqueness you are striving for, you may need to apply up to 4 coats. Allow the first to dry completely (1 to 2 days) before applying the second coat and so on; lightly dampening the surface between each application.
Considerations:
Limewash can be a skin irritant. Always wear protective clothing, gloves, safety goggles and a painter's mask.
Because the curing process is so important to limewash, special attention should be given to the weather when it is applied. Temperatures between 40 and 85 degrees F are optimal with low humidity and no forecast for rain or frost.
Limewash will dry several shades lighter than how it appears wet.
Limewash is anti-bacterial and insecticidal. In the past it was often used on farm buildings to prevent the spread of disease.
You'll need approximately 3 gallons of limewash to apply 3 coats on a flat, porous area that is about 172.22 square feet in size.
Additive such as linseed oil, tallow, casein may be included to improve water shedding and reduce chalkiness.
For improved color depth you might want to consider a white wash primer or basecoat.
Source for Limewash:
Virginia Limeworks
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