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The Big Fig

One of the plants remaining from the previous farmstead at the Garden Home Retreat is a humongous fig bush. It is ancient, at least 70 years old. I just call it 'The Big Fig'. Unfortunately The Big Fig was in the wrong spot. I had plans for the old gal that involved moving her to a more prominent position.

The gardens at the Retreat are made up of two terraces. The lower terrace is a vegetable garden and I have devoted much of my time this past spring and summer working in this area. At each end of the vegetable terrace we've constructed a tunnel of espaliered fruit trees attached to metal hoops.

The right terrace leads out to a pasture, so the view through the pear tunnel is open ended. The area needed a 'capstone' to punctuate where the vegetable garden ends and the field begins; an exclamation point for the end of the sentence so to speak. The Big Fig immediately came to mind. She was the perfect fit.

At over 8 feet tall and equally wide, transplanting The Big Fig was no small feat. We had to get out a tractor with a backhoe to dig her out and move the shrub to her new location.

To ensure a successful relocation we dug a hole that would accommodate the width of the fig's root ball and allow the crown of the plant to sit just above ground level. The existing soil was amended with equal parts Pro-Mix Ultimate Organic Mix, humus and river sand. Water retentive polymers were added to the planting hole to give the roots consistent nutrients and moisture. After back filling the hole, a wall of soil was created around the perimeter of the shrub to make a well that would hold moisture.

As a finishing touch, this autumn a U-shaped hedge of rose 'Sarah Van Fleet' will be planted around The Big Fig so that from spring to the first frost she?ll sit amid a sea of fragrant, pink flowers.

I'm happy to report that The Big Fig made it through the move with flying colors. The leaves are a little stunted, but they should come back next year at their normal size. And we have figs! Hard to believe considering what a shock it must have been to be moved after all these years.

I can't help think that the gardener who first planted The Big Fig would be please with the plant's new lease on life. It makes me happy knowing that a part of that person's dream will live on at The Garden Home Retreat.

Tips for Growing Figs in Your Garden

Hardiness - Figs are reliably cold hardy in zone 7 and southward. They can survive winter temperatures down to 15 to 20 degrees F. You can grow them north of zone 7 if you provide them with winter protection or grow them in containers that can be stored in a garage or basement. Celeste and Brown Turkey are particularly cold hardy varieties. The roots of a fig tree are more resilient than the branches, so if an unusually harsh winter zaps the tree back to the ground, don't panic. It will most likely come back from the roots.

Light - Warmth and plenty of sunlight are important for good fruit development. Plant your fig in an area that will receive 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day. In northern regions it is good to select a warm microclimate, such as against a south facing brick wall, where the tree will receive ample light and heat. In areas where summers are exceptionally hot, give your fig protection from the afternoon sun.

Water - Figs need consistent moisture and well-drained soil. Soggy soil often results in split fruit and a plant that has dried out will produce rock hard fruit that never fully ripens. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch under the canopy of the tree to retain moisture and keep the roots cool. When applying mulch keep it about 12 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot and pest problems.

Pruning - Established fig trees tend to resent heavy pruning. If you have a tree that has grown out of control it is best to reduce the size in stages. Although it is okay to prune during the growing season, severe pruning is best done in winter when the plant is dormant. Start by removing dead, diseased and damaged wood. Next select about 1/3 of the branches that you would like to remove. Cut these back to the main stems. Repeat the process the following winter. If you just can't stand it, the tree can be cut down to a 2 to 3 foot stump and it will sprout again. The following season after fruiting, thin the young branches to control the shape.